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HOW TO GROW 

ASTERS 




JAMES TICK'S SONS 

ROCHESTER, NEW TORK 



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HOW TO GROW 
ASTERS 



A MANUAL ON ASTERS 

George Abxold 

w 

FAIUVI SUPERINTENDENT 




Sixth Edition— Revised 



1912 
JAMES TICK'S SONS 

ASTER SPECIALISTS 
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 



I 



^ 



COFYHIGHTED, 1913 

JAMES VICK'S SOSTS 

KOCHESTER, N. Y. 



Composition from Printing Department oJ 
JAMES VICK'S SONS 



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HOW TO GROW ASTERS 

V • V • V V • V • V • V • V • »♦♦'•' V • V^ V • V • V • V • V*^ V ♦ • V • v^v • V • V • 

The China Aster 

t*'*'*'*'*'*'^tHE ASTER was introduced into Europe from 
*| ♦— f-* T China about 1731, and is still known as the 
j I Y China Aster. There are many Asters native to 
X -i- Y Europe and America— ^mostly perennials. The 
T T seventh edition of Gray's Botany gives sixty 

V,,-, J, -,;,-.,« gpg^jgg Qf Asters indigenous to the eastern 

United States alone. It is a curious fact that with so many 
true Asters in America and Europe the plant that is referred 
to as "the Aster" is, botanically speaking, not' an Aster. It 
has been variously named by botanists '' Callistephus hor- 
tensis," " Callistephus chifiefisis" and " Callistemma hortensis." 
But for everyone except the systematic botanist it is and 
will be known as "the Aster." 

When it was first introduced it was single and the only 
colors were blue, violet and white. About 20 years later 
double flowers are mentioned in red, blue and white ; and 
in 1S07 a variegated form. An edition of Paxton's Botanical 
Dictionary, London, published as late as 1868, gives seven 
varieties of Callistemtna, (China Aster), as being known in 
Great Britain at that time. The colors include blue, white, 
variegated and red. Paxton gives it the same brief mention 
that is given to Coreopsis. 

About 1850 the quilled type of flower seems to have 
been most popular and dwarf forms of the plant also began 
to appear. Previous to 1890 the Aster was apparently grown 
largely for garden decoration, dwarf plants and small, com- 
pact flowers predominating. These types are still much 
in evidence in Germany — the home of the Aster seed in- 
dustry. One German catalogue of five years ago (1907) 
offers 673 varieties divided as follows : 234 tall ; 261 semi- 
tall ; 178 dwarf. 



now TO GROW ASTERS 

Between 1890 and 1895 three new types were introduced 
which were well adapted to the uses of the commercial 
florist. These were Queen of the Market, Comet and Branch- 
ing. American florists were quick to see the commercial 
value of these types and the Aster soon became an impor- 
tant florist's flower. It is relatively more important here 
than in Europe, where many of the older garden forms are 
still grown, With us it is the most important outdoor grown 
flower; and the total value of the Aster seed sold by Amer- 
ican seedsmen exceeds that of any other one flower. 

COLORS 

The China Aster may now be had in colors ranging from 
white, and pale flesh-pink, through many intermediate shades 
to dark violet-blue and to deep crimson. Yellow seems 
foreign to the Aster and is added with difficulty. The scarlet 
Asters lack the admixture of yellow found in a true scarlet ; 
and the best of the yellow Asters is not much m.ore than 
a pale primrose. 

Fifteen or twenty shades of color are offered by German 
seedsmen in some of the older and more important classes; 
and the addition of striped or variegated varieties sometimes 
brings the total to more than thirty color varieties in a single 
class. Asters with striped petals have not acquired much 
vogue in this country. While the individual flowers are some- 
times quite pretty they have a somewhat blurred effect when 
massed. It may also be said that a large part of the two- 
colored flowers are imperfectly marked. In a"white and rose" 
for instance, there may be found on the same plant, in ad- 
dition to those flowers having white petals striped with rose, 
some that are all rose color, some that are all white, and 
some in which the colors have apparently "run" into washy 
pink. Such shades, also, as "brownish violet," "reddish 
violet," "coppery purple" and "reddish lilac" are not at- 
tractive to American growers. The demand from the amateur 
follows rather closely the range of colors.used by the florist — 
white, light, pink, lavender and purple, in the order named. 



,♦, — ,♦, 



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HOW TO G K O AV ASTERS 



Classification 

SOME of the European houses which supply seedsmen 
with Aster seed catalogue 25 to 50 classes, having from 
five to thirty colors in each class ; about fifteen classes 
with from two to four colors; and fifteen to twenty separate 
varieties not classified. Only a few classes from this be- 
wildering list are of interest to American growers. 

Victoria is one of the leading European types of Aster. 
The plant is of upright growth and medium height, bloom- 
ing in mid-season. The petals of the flower are reflexed, or 
bent back at the ends, and the inner petals are rather short. 
The short, spreading petals make any defect in respect to 
the center of the flower very conspicuous. When perfectly 
double the flower has a rather formal appearance, reminding 
one somewhat of a double Zinnia. 

Dwarf Victoria is smaller in plant and flower than the 
type. 

W^ashington is a 
quite large flowered 
Victoria. 

Mignon, Dwarf 
Mignon, Pompon, 
Snowball and Lady 
have smaller flowers 
of the same, im- 
bricated, reflexed 
type as Victoria. 

The Lady caster 
is easily distinguish- 
ed by its leaves, 
which are narrower 
than those of any 
other variety. victoria an in ikriok specimen) 




II o w 






TO GROW ASTERS 




DAYBREAK ASTER 



Daybreak and Purity, varieties resembling Victoria in 
habit and season, have been so extensively grown as to de- 
serve special mention. They are more robust in plant and 
flower than Victoria. The flowers differ, also, in having the 
petals straight instead of reflexed ; and in fresh flowers the 
petals should be slightly folded lengthwise. They were in- 
troduced by James Vick's Sons in 1897 and 1899, and several 
other colors have since been added to this class. New and 



HOW TO GROW ASTERS 

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"Giant" strains of Daybreak and Purity, larger in plant and 
flower, were introduced the present year (1912). 

Truffaut. (Truffaut's Peony-flowered Perfection) is 
another important type. Plant and season are like Victoria 
but the flower is quite distinct. The petals of the Truffaut 
Aster are broad and strongly incurved. The edges of the 
petal are also slightly curved forward, so that it has a boat- 
shaped outline. 

Dwarf Truffaut, Ball or Jewel and Triumph belong 
to this type. Perfect flowers of this type are very pretty ; 
but in poor or unthrifty specimens of all varieties having 
curved or folded petals the petals flatten out so as to lose 
their distinctive character. 

Quilled. In a single or semi-double Aster flower the 
"yellow center" is made up of short tubular florets, sur- 
rounded by one or more rows of florets having the familiar 
long, strap-shaped corolla, or petal. One of the earliest 
developments was the Quilled type, in which the central 
tubular florets were elongated and colored like the outer, 
flat petals. This sort of stiff floral pincushion is but little 
grown at the present time. 

Crown or Cocardeau is a modification of this type in 
which the central disk is white, surrounded by outer rays of 
some contrasting color. 

Needle. Another modification is the Needle Aster, in 
which all the florets are tubular, more elongated than in the 
quilled, and tapering to a blunt point. 

Ray Asters are another form, in which the florets are all 
tubular. The outer rows are like darning needles ; extremely 
long, slender and sharp pointed. As the inner florets are 
short the flower is flat, and of a large diameter. 

Dwarf Bouquet. The plants of this type are only a few 
inches in height, and when in bloom form compact hem- 
ispheres of color. They were formerly much used for edging, 
but have been replaced by plants having more uniformity in 
height and a more continuous season of bloom. 



H O AV TO G R O AV ASTERS 



•♦^►:— i-^ 




Commercial Types 

Queen of the Market. A valuable commercial class, com- 
ing into bloom two or three weeks before the mid-season 
varieties. The plant makes an open, spreading growth and 

when well grown the stems 
are of good length. The 
flowers are relatively large, 
the petals are broad, a lit- 
tle recurved and longer 
than in most of the older 
types of Aster. The flower 
has a soft, loose appearance 
and the center is well cov- 
ered by the inner petals. 
It was introduced in Eu- 
rope by Vilmorin about 
1885, and was generally 
COMET ASTEa, " THE BocHESTER » offcred in Attierlca in 1890. 
Comet. The Comet type of flower is characterized by 
having petals that are extremely long and narrow and 
strongly recurved— although sometimes it is only the outer 
rows that are thus recurved. The original type was upright 
in growth with slender stems and narrow leaves. Even the 
seed was noticeably long and slender. Comet flowers of 
widely varying forms may no\/ be had, on plants of every 
known type, and in season from earliest to latest. In some 
of the Comet varieties the center of the flower is filled with 
long tubular florets which are irregularly cut and slashed, 
giving a ragged, Chrysanthemum like effect. This is espe- 
cially true on the center, or "crown" flower. In other varieties 
the long, narrow petals are all recurved with considerable 
regularity, Again, they may be curled and twisted in fan- 
tastic fashion. Originally introduced by Vilmorin at about 
the same time as the Queen of the Market, this graceful 
feathery type of flower has constantly increased in favor. 



H O ^V TO G R O AY 



ASTERS 9 

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Branching. (Page 16.) The first record of the Branching 
Aster is the introduction of the " New White Branching," 
by James Vick's Sons in 1893. It was larger in plant and 
flower than any Aster in cultivation at that time and rapidly 
superseded most of the older classes. The wide spreading 
plants had many long, stout branches, so thickly set with 
laterals that disbudding was generally practised by florists. 
The large flowers had a soft, loose appearance, due to the 
irregular arrangement of the petals. The petals were quite 
long, rather broad, flat and nearly straight. There have been 
many modifications of plant and flower. Most of the stock 
now in cultivation is less spreading and less bushy than 
formerly; a race of semi-upright plants entirely devoid of 
laterals has been developed for florists' use ; and a class of 
strictly upright plants with Branching flowers is being devel- 
oped. Many of the Branching flowers now show strongly 
whorled centers. Others have the broad, incurved petal of 
the Truffaut type. The Semple Branching, originating with 
James M. Semple, Bellevue, Pa. , has long petals a little folded 
lengthwise and 
also slightly 
whorled. 

Vick's "King" 
Aster is anoth- 
ermodification 
in which the 
petals are so 
closely folded 
lengthwise as 
to appear al- 
most tubular. 
At the present 
time it is prob- 
able that more 
Branching As- 
ters are grown 
in the United 
States than of 
all other kinds. 




VIOLET KING 



►J»— ~ 'I' » > * < ~ ^t— H$>.»-<. * . » 1 ^ . » , | | 

HOW TO GROW ASTERS 

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Commercial Growing 

THE ASTER is, at the present time, our most import- 
ant outdoor commercial flower. The reasons are not 
far to seek. The Aster may be had in those colors 
which are most useful to the florist in summer ; it has splen- 
did keeping qualities as a cut flower; it has good stems; it 
stands rough handling as well as any flower in commercial 
use ; and it is so easily grown that a large proportion of the 
flowers handled by the trade are produced by men unskilled 
in floriculture. Many of the Asters coming into the Rocheter 
market are grown by farmers or by market gardeners who 
have not attempted the commercial growing of any other 
flower. Every year the production of Asters for profit is 
undertaken by people who not only lack experience in the 
special culture of flowers, but who also lack a fair know- 
ledge of the underlying principles of the cultivation of 
ordinary crops and of plant growth in general. 

Brief notes on the commercial growing of Asters, in- 
tended for the use of the more experienced growers, were 
prepared for this booklet. Since the last edition of "How to 
Grow Asters" was issued we have had innumerable questions 
from those to whom the work was apparently new. We have 
felt compelled, therefore, to expand these notes and make 
them so full that they would serve the most inexpert beginner. 

EAELY ASTERS FOR I^IARKET 

We believe that the growing of Asters for the early mar- 
ket offers an excellent opportunity for profit if the work is 
properly done. Several growers of our acquaintance in West- 
ern New York are uniformly successful in the production of 
profitable crops of extra early Asters. The plants, with these 
growers, reach a height of two feet and upward. The large 
flowers are eagerly sought by the trade and bring very satis- 
factory prices. 

10 



now TO GROW ASTERS 



11 




BRANCHING ASTER 

To produce such results one needs to understand the 
nature of the early varieties, and we offer some suggestions 
on the special treatment required by early Asters. 

Plants of such early varieties as Vick's Snowdrift and 
Vick's Earliest Lavender, are in such a hurry to get into 
bloom that some care and skill are required to prevent them 
from blooming before a sufficient plant growth has been 
made. The best results are obtaiwed by growing the plants 
to a good size under glass. They should be kept in a thrifty 
growing condition at all times. Any serious check causes the 
formation of flower buds and a stoppage of plant growth. 



n O TV TO GROW ASTERS 

When seed is sowed outside in April or May, with that 
of the late Branching varieties, the little plants often set 
flower buds while still in the seed row. Our crop of seed of 
earliest varieties is grown from plants started in cold frames. 
Last season the seed was sowed April 8th to 11th, and the 
plants were planted out in a good fertile field May 24th. 
They were in full 'bloom from the 15th to the. 20th of July. 
If one were growing flowers for home use this would be quite 
satisfactory. When the extra early varieties are to be grown 
for profit, however, we advise sowing seed in the greenhouse 
as early as the middle of February. They can then be 
planted out so that their field growth is made during the 
cool weather of spring. The coming of hot weather will 
bring them into bloom, and the growth must be made before 
that time. 

Having a short growing season, a rich soil is much more 
essential to success in the field with early Asters than with 
the later varieties. For growing any sort of early crop it is 
desirable to have a heavy dressing of manure applied the 
previous season, and early Asters respond especially well to 
this treatment. If applied the same season it should be well 
rotted, so that it may be immediately available. 

sowi:n^g 

When sowing the seed in the greenhouse the florists 
uses "flats," or shallow boxes three to four inches deep. 

These are often made by sawing up grocery boxes ; but 
boxes of uniform size are much more convenient and can be 
made so as to fit the benches and cold frames without loss 

of room. 

See to the drainage before filling, boring holes in the 

corners, if necessary. 

If the boards swell so that the box is water-tight the soil 
becomes sour and the plants sicken. 

The soil need not be over two and one-half to three inches 
in depth, and need not be very rich. 

Aster seedlings will grow in ordinary garden soil to a 
size large enough for the first transplanting; but it is well 



ii o \v to g r o ^v asters 13 

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to add one-fourth, fine well rotted manure, and enough sand 
to prevent the soil from becoming hard. 

Press the soil well into the corners. 

In filling a flat the center will naturally be well settled 
and special care should be taken to firm the corners ; other- 
wise, after a few waterings, the corners will be low and it will 
be hard to keep the flat uniformly watered. 

Fill the flat half or two-thirds full, water thoroughly, and 
finish filling with soil just moist enough to handle nicely. 

The wet soil, in the bottom will furnish enough moisture 
so that the boxes will not have to be sprinkled until after 
the seed is up. A paper laid over the box will check evap- 
oration ; but it should be removed as soon as the first seeds 
begin to show. 

Sow the seed in rows about two inches apart, cover with 
fine sand and press firmly. 

Where the flats are uniform it is customary to use a simple 
marker that makes, at one operation, shallow marks, evenly 
spaced. It is made by tacking narrow strips on a board of 
suitable size and providing it with handles on the other side. 
Similar devices are used to space plants evenly in "pricking 
out", or transplanting from the seed row into other flats. 
WATERING 

When watering is necessary water thoroughly and evenly 
and do not water again until the surface is dry. Avoid 
frequent sprinkling. Do not water late in the day. 

Like many other seedlings, the young aster plants, are 
subject to attacks of ' 'damping off. ' ' Frequent watering is con- 
ducive to this" trouble. See "Diseases of the Aster." Another 
objection to frequent watering is, that it tends to form a crust 
on the soil and thus excludes the air. Because it is porous, 
seeds start better in soil that does not have to be watered 
until after they are all sprouted. Sowing in rows, as advised 
above, allows one to stir the soil close to the rows. This aids 
in the germination of the seed and, later, in the growthof the 
young plants. The objection to watering late in the day is 
that it leaves the surface wet long enough to give fungus 
growths a chance to start. 



14 II O W T O G R O ^V A 8 T E R S 

TRANSPI^ANTLN^G 

When the seedlings have made two or more true leaves, 
they can be pricked off into other boxes. The soil of the 
plant box should be as moist as may be without sticking, so 
that it will not need sprinkling for the first day or two after 
transplanting. 

Plants root better in soil that is moist than they do in 
soil that is wet. It is well, also, to keep the boxes of plants 
rather dry for a few days before pricking out, as the plants 
take hold better, when changed to soil more moist than that 
from which they are taken. 

It is customary to use a rich potting soil, or compost 
for growing plants in the flats. We prefer, however, to use a 
layer of rich soil in the bottom, and an inch or so of com- 
mon garden loam, or even clear sand, on top. 

Wefind that when this is done, neglect in the care of the 
plant is less likely to lead to future trouble from stem-rot or 
other fungus diseases. The plants should have at least an 
inch in the row, and two and one-half inches between the 
rows, so that the surface of the soil may be stirred frequently. 
This promotes growth and prevents stem-rot. If the plants 
get crowded a second transplanting should be given. 

When plants of the extra early varieties get crowded, 
or for any other reason get checked in their growth, they 
begin to form flower buds, and further plant growth is stop- 
ped. Keeping the plants continuously soaked with water, or 
allowing them to remain too dry, for several days at a time, 
will produce the same effect. 

harde:n^ing 

If the seed is sowed in February, the plants should be 
large enough to set in the field some time in April, while 
severe weather may still be expected. The greenhouse grown 
plants will be soft and tender. To harden them place the flat 
in a cold frame, from which the glass can be entirely removed 
on pleasant days. The frame will require protection from 
frost until the plants have been toughened by exposure. 



HOTVTO GROAVASTEBS 15 

Under favorable conditions this should not take more 
than ten days. Keeping the plants a little "on the dry 
side," for a few days, will give them a firmer texture, and 
full exposure to the wind, if weather conditions permit, will 
soon complete the hardening. We have set out plants handled 
in this manner, that survived a succession of hard frosts, so 
hard that the ground actually froze at night. The plants 
came through all right and made a profitable crop. Two 
years ago the most profitable Asters brought to this market, 
were from plants that were covered with six inches of snow 
soon after they were planted out. 

Caution ! Do not forget that when first taken from the 
warm greenhouse the Aster plants are as tender as so many 
tomato plants. PLANTING OUT 

There is usually no special skill necessary when the 
planting is done early in the season. The beginner, how- 
ever, should be cautioned to not set plants in mud. As 
already stated, under "Transplanting," plants root better in 
soil that is moist than they do in soil that is %vet. For conven- 
ience in cultivating, the rows need to be 27 to 30 inches 
apart. The plants can be set 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. 

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 

Having a short growing season the preparation of the 
soil for a field crop of Early Asters should be thorough. 
Turning under coarse or strawy material that would require 
considerable time to decay is undesirable. We should not 
think of putting out plants for a crop of seed until the 
land was all in a fine, mellow condition to the depth that it 
was plowed ; and we should consider careful preparation even 
more important in the case of plants grown for cut flowers. 

FERTILIZING THE LAND 

Asters, like many of our cultivated crops, do much better 
on soil that has been enriched previous to the year they are 
grown, and this is especially true of the early kinds. It is 
doubtful if early Asters get much benefit from manure that 



16 II O AV T O G R O AV A S T K R S 

^. . ,1. - .♦. , .;■ ■ ■:< ■ >:« - 'I' ' ►♦■>^*«^«^:*^*:. - >:■ - »:■ - ■:< - >x*^ ^:. 

is plowed under the same spring. The finest crops of field 
grown early Asters we have seen have been grown on land 
made fertile by having been used for garden crops for several 
years — and well fertilized each year; or that had been quite 
heavily fertilized the previous year. Plowing under three or 




VICE'S WHITE BRANCHING 

four inches of manure in the fall ; or covering in early winter 
with an equal amount may seem to many like an extravagant 
preparation. We are confident, however, that the greatest 
profit will be found in -this intensive culture. If manure is to 
be applied in the spring it should be well rotted and be used 
as a top dressing, harrowing it in after plowing. 

If a commercial fertilizer is used it should be thoroughly 
distributed through the soil by drilling or harrowing. We 
think that strewing it in the row and planting over it leaves 
the fertilizer in a form too concentrated for best results. A 
high grade complete fertilizer, such as is used by market 
gardeners, is best for Asters. If should contain not less than 
three and one-half or four per cent of available nitrogen. 

It has been found by experiment that much better results 
are obtained when the plant food is derived from organic 



HOW TO GROW ASTERS It 

>♦•■• V • V V^^> ♦♦♦♦♦♦»'■ 

sources. Most dealers in fertilizers at the present time are 
able to supply goods of this character. If depending upon 
commercial fertilizers for early Asters we should use not less 
than 800 to 1000 pounds per acre. 

CULTIVATION 

We cultivate our Aster fields about once a week, when 
weather permits, until they begin to bloom. The first culti- 
vations are deep and thorough. Guards are used on the 
cultivators so that they can be run close to the plants. As 
•the plants increase in size the cultivation is not so deep and 
soil is thrown towards the plants. The last two or three 
times through the cultivator is set to run not over two mches 
deep. We think that the surface should be kept loose, but 
the feeding roots, which by this time fill the soil from row to 
row should not be too much disturbed. 

'it is very important that the soil should be thoroughly 
stirred just as soon after each rain as it will work up mellow. 
There is a very rapid loss of soil moisture by evaporation 
when the soil is allowed to remain packed by a rain ; or 
when a shower has formed a crust on the surface. Breaking 
up the crust and leaving the surface mellow also materially 
aids the growth of plants by admitdng air to the soil. 

The Asters are hoed several times during the season ; 
partly to keep down weeds, but more particularly to keep 
the soil mellow between the plants in the row. Don't allow 
workmen to scrape the dirt away, leaving a hard, bare sur- 
face that will dry out badly and that also leaves the Aster 
roots exposed. A little practise will enable them to kill the 
weeds and still leave a loose, mellow soil in the row. A skill- 
ful use of the cultivator leaves only a very narrow strip for 
hand hoeing ; and as the plants get larger dirt can be thrown 
toward the row at each cultivation, effectually smothering 
the weeds that are just starting. 

This thorough and frequent culdvadon also cleans out 
most of the insects in the soil. 



18 IT O W T O G R O W A S T E K S 

WATERING 

If artificial watering is necessary, and you have facilities 
for doing it, give the soil a good soaking. Nothing is gained 
by a mere wetting of the surface. Make sure that the water 
has penetrated to a depth of several inches. Then, as soon as 
it has settled away so that the soil will work up mellow, culti- 
vate thoroughly, and you will hold the moisture in the soil 

If you have never made a careful examination after 
watering in the field you will be surprised to find that when 
you think you have done a thorough job of watering you 
have, in reality, only made a fair beginning. It takes a little 
over five and one-half barrels of water to make the equivalent 
of an inch of rainfall over a single square rod. 

If one cannot put on enough water to penetrate to the 
roots of the plants it is perhaps better — and certainly cheaper 
— to conserve the moisture that is in the soil by means of a 
"dust mulch." That is, checking evaporation by frequent 
shallow stirring of the surface. 

Mid-Seaso:n^ and Late Asters 

To keep up a continuous supply of Asters until the end 
of the season, it is of course necessary to make a few succes- 
sive sowings and plantings. In planning the successive 
crops, one should try to avoid having the flowers from 
a second or belated sowing of a smaller and earlier variety 
come on the market at the same time as the first cutting 
from a larger and later kind. For instance, instead of making 
a second sowing of the extra early varieties one can, at the 
time they are sowed, also sow seed of the second early or 
mid-season kinds. These latter would come into bloom at 
the same time as would a second sowing of the earliest 
kinds ; and being larger would be preferred. 

The latter part of March one can usually sow Asters in 
cold frames. At this season it is an advantage to put four or 
five inches of manure in the bottom. This will not be enough 
to furnish bottom heat, but it gives good drainage, and as it 



H O >V T O G R O ^V A S T E B S 19 

decays it stimulates growth. It should be thoroughly tramped 
and leveled before putting on the soil so that after the dirt 
is leveled off there will not be spots where the soil barely 
covers the manure. Spots where there is only an inch or two 
of soil over the manure are always dry and the plants cannot 
be made to grow on them. Four to six inches of soil is 
necessary and it must be of a light nature. We use a fairly 
rich compost in the bottom, and on top an inch or so of light 
sandy loam from a garden, or clear sand from a sand bank. 
This reduces the liability to trouble from damping off and 
to subsequent trouble from stem rot. Give plenty of air in 
the middle of the day. Where one has a few frames or hot 
beds that are not fenced in, domestic animals are sometimes 
quite annoying when the sashes are partly opened for airing. 
This can be obviated by making light frames the size of the 
hot-bed sash and covering them with poultry netting. 

The last sowing can be made in the open ground the 
latter part of April, providing one has a good light soil and 
facilities for watering. On a heavy soil one can grow strong, 
large plants but the roots are poor for transplanting. In a 
sandy or gravelly soil the plants develop a mass of fine 
roots ; and in that kind of soil the roots do not get stripped 
off in digging. 

The greatest volume of business in Asters is done late 
in the season — just before the Chrysanthemums begin to 
come in ; and plants grown in the open ground should pro- 
duce a crop of flowers in time for this market. The plants 
can be grown cheaper in the open ground than in boxes, or 
frames, and will be less subject to disease. As before stated, 
it is unsafe to depend upon this method unless provision is 
made for watering. It will be found, also, that plants in the 
open ground do not stand transplanting in unfavorable 
weather so well as those that have had their roots confined 
in flats or frames. 

We give four inches between the rows in frames and 
twelve in the open ground. This allows the former to remain 
where sowed until large enough to plant out ; and permits 
using the wheel hoe with the latter. 



20 HOW TO GROW ASTERS 

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 

We find it of great advantage to fit the land as early as 
possible and to keep it stirred occasionally until planted, 
even where we do not plant until July. Manure, stubble or 
refuse that is turned under has time to rot and become 
mingled with the surrounding soil ; the moisture with which 
the sub-soil is filled in early spring is prevented from evap- 
orating rapidly, as it does when the ground gets hard; and 
many injurious insects are ground up or brought to the sur- 
face, to make food for the birds ; and weed seeds are brought 
to the surface, where they will sprout and then be destroyed 
by the next stirring. We harrow our fields as soon after each 
rain as the soil will work up without sticking; or whenever . 
weeds or grass begin to show. These harrowings are usually . 
about ten days apart. 

In the case of a piece of ground not large enough to 
put on two-horse farm tools, a one-horse cultivator, with fine 
or coarse teeth, according to circumstances, would accom- 
plish the same results. ferTILIZEVG 

We have advocated the use of large quantities of manure 
or fertilizer, for the earliest crops of Asters. The longer time 
the crop has in which to mature the less necessity there is 
for intensive culture. 

For the last crop of Late Branching Asters quite satis- 
factory growths can be produced on land of only moderate 
fertility, provided it is well supplied with moisture. But in a 
dry season the soil that has had liberal dressings of stable 
manure will show far stronger growth. We consider the use 
of fresh horse manure undesirable. We have observed cases 
where the Aster plants showed a considerable percentage of 
fungus disea-ses as far as fresh horse manure had been used 
in the field. ROTATION 

Growers are usually advised to change the location of 
their Asters from year to year, so that they will always be 
planted on fresh ground. In a general way this. is undoubt- 



i 



HO^VTO GROWASTEBS SI 

edly desirable; It has a tendency to prevent the soil from 
getting badly infested with diseases or insects that attack 
the Aster. If the soil becomes infested with loot-lice it is 
unsafe to plant Asters on it the following year. Where there 
has been a severe attack of any fungus disease, especially 
stem-rot, there is greater liability of infection the following 
year on the same ground. On the other hand, if a piece of 
ground is especially well adapted to the growth of the Aster, 
it would be unwise to change to a poorer piece, merely for 
the sake of a change. We have known of Asters being grown 
on the same plot twenty years in succession, and the last 
crop was the best. On one farm in this county, last year, 
where Asters were planted in several widely separated fields 
there was less disease in a field on which Asters had been 
planted continuously for six years than there was in poorer 
fields on which Asters had not previously been grown. 

To sum up ; so long as Asters continue to do well on a 
particular plot it is not necessary or advisable to move them 
•unless one can be sure of equally good conditions elsewhere. 

co\t:r crops 

When the same land is used continuously for Asters we 
like to use a cover crop for the purpose of keeping up the . 
supply of humus or vegetable mold in the soil. Rye or Vetch 
sowed at the rate of one and one-half bushels per acre are 
used for this purpose. 

The Vetch is preferable if it can be sowed early — say by 
the first of September. Being a leguminous plant it enriches 
the soil by the addition of valuable nitrogen drawn from the 
air. The species used for this purpose is Vicia villosa. It is 
variously known as "Hairy Vetch," "Hardy Vetch," "Winter 
Vetch," "Russian Vetch" and "Sand Vetch." The "Spring 
Vetch," Vicia sativa, is not hardy in the north. The Winter 
Vetch is a slender pea-like vine, with narrow leaflets and one- 
sided racemes of small violet-blue flowers. It is a vigorous 
plant, making a growth of five or six feet when it has a full 
season in good soil. Sowed late in the season it covers the 
ground with a close mat of green. 



as HOW TO GROW ASTERS 

Winter Rye is one of the hardiest of plants and will 
grow late in the fall and early in the spring, and will survive 
the hardest winter. Sowed late in October it will still furnish a 
fair amount of green growth to turn under the following May. 

It is necessary to plow the cover crop under before it 
gets too large or too mature. Turned under while still suc- 
culent, and when the ground is moist, it will decay in a few 
days. After the plants have begun to harden, and especially 
if turned under when the ground is dry, they decay slowly 
and further dry out the soil in the process. The prompt and 
repeated use of the roller and harrow are essential to hasten 
the decay of the plant growth that has been turned under 
and to solidify the soil. 

If vve wish to get the full benefit of a cover crop we 
want it to make a good growth in the spring, so that only 
late varieties of Asters can follow a cover crop. 

A cheaper grade of fertilizer, one containing less nitro- 
gen, is effective^ on crops that stand over winter. On our 
cover crops we have used the dissolved phosphate rock — 
"acid rock," or "dissolved bone," as it is called. This 
material contains about 14^ per cent, phosphoric acid and 
costs about $15.00 per ton. On our soil 400 to 600 pounds 
per acre of this fertilizer drilled in with the seed materially 
increases the growth of the cover crop and is a cheap method 
of keeping up the fertility of the soil. 
PLAJS^TLNG OUT 

When there is a large block of Asters to plant one can 
not always wait for showery days. The plants are soon ruined 
if they are left in a crowded seed row after they have reached 
a size suitable for planting out. So it sometimes happens 
that late plantings of Asters have to be made when the 
weather conditions are very unfavorable. 

The Aster plant will not endure so much hardship in 
transplanting as some of the vegetable plants with which we 
are all familiar. The thin and comparatively soft leaves burn 
much more easi'y than the thick, hard leaves of the cabbage ; 



HOW TO GRO^V ASTERS 23 

and new feeding roots do not start so quickly as they do on 
the tomato. 

When planting during hot, dry weather we always "pud- 
dle" the Aster roots. A very thin mortar of clay is prepared. 
Grasping a large handful of plants by the top, the roots are 
thoroughly immersed in the "puddle" and then wiped back 
and forth over fine, loose earth. The drier soil clings to the 
wet clay, effectually coating over the bundle of wet roots, 
excluding air and keeping them in good condition. When 
several handfuls have been prepared in this way they are 
rolled up in a wet burlap and in this shape can be carried to 
a distant field or kept for planting several hours later. Clay, 
not ordinary loamy top soil should be used for making a 
"puddle." 

When weather conditions are very trying we do all of 
the planting in the afternoon. Asters planted in the morning 
when it is so very hot and dry get so badly parched before 
sundown that they do not recover over night and are liable 
to be burned to a crisp by the end of the second day. 
Whereas, if planted in the afternoon they do not get so 
badly wilted but that they will freshen up by next morning, 
and so stand a good chance to pull through. 

In planting by hand in a dry time great care is neces- 
sary to prevent dry earth from rattling into the hole made 
by the dibble, and so coming into direct contact with the 
roots. Plants seldom live when this is allowed to happen. 
One can often brush away the dry earth with a stroke of the 
dibble before making the hole ; but when the soil is dry and 
too deep for this it is better to water the row before plant- 
A good method is to make, on the mark, a shallow furrow 
with hoe or hand plow and then water this furrow an hour 
in advance of planting. After planting pull dry earth over 
the furrow to prevent baking and too rapid evaporation. 
This method of watering in the plants if done late in the 
day, will carry them safely through the most trying weather. 
Putting water on top after planting does not give good results. 



S4 now TO GROWASTERS 

Insect Enemies 

The Tarnished Plant-bug, Lygiis prate7isis, does a lot of 
mischief that is frequently attributed to other causes, even 
by some experienced growers. Plants upon which these bugs 
have been feeding have a characteristic appearance that, 
once known, is easily recognized. The bugs iive by sucking 
the sap from the tender tips of the plants and pay for their 
dinners by causing the tips to die. This sort of "pinching 
back" produces a dwarfed, bunched, thickened appearance, 
as distinguished from the symmetrical dwarfing that is 
caused by lack of moisture. An extreme case is shown on 
page 27. Three terminal buds have escaped for the time be- 
ing and are making a normal growth. Another extreme case 
is shown on page 29. One of the lower branches on this 
plant made a normal growth until it had exceeded the 
stunted portion in height. Then the terminal bud on this 
branch was killed and two lateral buds near the end started 
a healthy growth, as seen in the upper right hand corner of 
the picture. In dry weather the damage seems more marked. 
Often the branches become distorted and the leave? thick 
and yellow. Occasionally plants are actually destroyed, only 
the stump and a few blackened leaves remaining. The plant 
pictured on page 31, was from the top of a poor gravelly 
knoll, and was found in the condition shown at the end of 
a long drought. A number of composite plants are affected 
in like manner. Dahlias are especially susceptible. Among 
others we have noted, in our trial grounds, Brachycome, 
Calendula, Centaurea Cyanus, and C. Moschata, and most of 
the Everlastings, especially Acroclinium and Helichrysum ; 
and Tagetes, especially T. erecta. Among the non-composite 
flowers Antirrhinum and Salvia are especially susceptible to 
plant-bug injury. 

The tarnished plant-bug is an inconspicuous, yellowish- 
brown bug, a little smaller than a house fly, page 25, figs. 
6 and 7. As one approaches the plant on which the bugs are 
feeding they either hide on the opposite side or flyaway. As 



they are of an inconspicuous color they readily escape notice. 
The fields and hedges are full of them, so that killing off 
today's quota would be no insurance against tomorrow. 
Being a sucking insect, poisoning the plant gives no relief. 
Any sort of spray, even a simple dusting of air slacked lime, 




1. CUT-WOBM, twice life size. 2. CLICK-BEETLE, life size. 3. PEJfNSTLVANIA 
BLISTER-BEETLE, life size. 4. MILLIPEDE, twice life size. 5. WIRE-WORM, twice 
life size. 6 and 7. TARNISHED PLANT-BUGS, immature and adult forms. Natural size 
indicated by line at side. 

seems to make the plant less attractive to the bugs. A spray- 
ing of whale oil soap has proved one of the most effectual 
of the various deterrents we nave tried. Kerosene emulsion 
is also excellent. As above noted, the most damage is done 
in dry weather. For one thing, the bugs are more active on 
hot, sunny days ; also, when the plants are making a fresh, 
vigorous growth they seem to overcome the poison to a 
great extent. In our extensive field cultures we try to con- 
serve soil moisture so as to keep up a thrifty growth, and 
take a chance on the bugs. They do not work in the shade; 
so if one has an orchard or other shady place that is avail- 



26 HOW' TO GROW ASTERS 

« ♦ . » > x , » , x > « 't' - ■:< » 't' ■ ' I ' • > X ' ' > ^ «H.:*«>^* 

able, he can escape this pest. Some of the best flowers of 
Branching Asters received at the Wholesale Florist's in 
Rochester last season were sent in by a lad living near our 
seed farm. Upon investigation we found that the long stem- 
med flowers were grown on a little plot of four square rods, 
surrounded by old apple trees. We should not be surprised 
if growers in many sections would find it profitable to grow 
-late Asters under cheese cloth, as Connecticut farmers do 
tobacco. In some places they do not appear to have dis- 
covered the cultivated Asters ; but all of the Tarnished 
Plant-bugs around Rochester seem to have acquired that 
perverted taste. 

The Pennsylvania Blister-beetle, Epicauta pennsylvanica, 
feeds upon the flowers of the Aster and is exceedingly 
troublesome throughout its range. Page 25, fig. 3. It seems 
to be most prevalent in Pennsylvania and New Jersey, 
and is occasionally found as far north as Central New York. 
It is a good sized beetle, its rather soft body being a half- 
inch or more in length. It is of a uniform black color. Being 
active insects with voracious appetites, when a swarm of 
them attack a field of Asters they soon ruin all the flowers 
showing color. Good success has been reported combatting 
them with a spray containing three pounds of arsenate of 
lead in fifty gallons of water. 

The natural food of this species is said to be the pollen 
of the Goldenrod. It is to be hoped that the other two 
hundred species of Blister-beetles found in the United States 
will not transfer their attentions to the cultivated Aster. 
From the dried and ground bodies of the European species, 
the "Spanish-fly," or Cantharides, a blister powder is made ; 
and American species contain the same blistering property. 

Cut-worms are the caterpillars of certain moths known 
as Owlet-moths. Most of the moths or "millers" that fly 
into our houses at night belong to this family. There are 
in this state at least thirty species known to produce de- 
structive cut-worms. 



HOW TO 



GRO^V ASTERS 



27 




•s 



2s HOW TO GROWASTERS 

^ «» .♦. m i, m .|i - ,x> ' 'V ' ' X ' - ► : ■> •■»> : *^*->*^^ " » <■ » >> - '♦* - ' i *-^>t* 

The Cut-worms are smooth, soft bodied, fat-looking 
caterpillars. Page 25, fig. 1. When full grown they range 
from one inch to almost two inches in length, and in color 
from a dingy gray to almost black. The commonest kinds, 
as usually found, are a rather dark green and an inch or less 
in length. They feed at night, cutting off young plants near 
the surface of the ground and sometimes girdling larger 
plants. They eat anything that is tender and succulent. 
During the day they can generally be found just under the 
surface of the ground near where they last fed, burrowing 
down to moist soil. They may be destroyed by the use of 
poisoned bait. On a large scale, clover or other succulent 
plants are sprayed with Paris green, mowed, and scattered 
over the field in small bunches, late in the day. Poisoned 
bran is equally effective. 

Wire-worms are the young of click-beetles or ''snap- 
ping-bugs," as they are commonly called, of which there are 
more than five hundred kinds in North America. Page 25, 
fig. 2. The larvae are slender worm-like creatures, brownish 
or yellowish white in color, and have a very hard covering. 
Page 25, fig. 5. They are sometimes confused with the mill- 
ipedes, or "thousand-legged worms." Page 25, fig. 4. 

Millipedes feed on decaying vegetable matter and are 
not thought to be at all harmful. Wire-worms feed upon the 
tender roots of plants and take anything that comes in their 
way. No successful means of poisoning them has been found, 
either by means of poisoned bait or by putting some sub- 
stance on the soil to kill the wire-worms. Salt, potash, lime 
and similar substances can not be put on the ground in 
quantity sufificient to kill the wire-worms without destroying 
the growing crop. Fall plowing, including a thorough stir- 
ring and pulverizing of the soil, is the best means, so far 
found, of ridding a field of wire-worms. They are seldom 
found in serious numbers in land that is under cultivation 
every year. 



HOW TO GKOW ASTEBS 

t-^^ » » t » » > t ' * » t « » » ♦ ♦ » ' t « * ' t ' * ' t ' » » ♦ « ^ *♦' ■» >»« — »t*- 



89 




Aster plant dwarfed by Tarnished Plant-buff. One lower branch escaped injury nntil 
it exceeded the main stem in height. Then the terminal bud on this branch was killed 
and two lateral buds near the end developed a normal growth. 



30 H O AV T O G R O >V A 8 T E R S 

White Grubs are the larvae or immature forms of many 
kinds of May-beetles or June-bugs. They are too well known 
to need any description. Like the wire-worms they accu- 
mulate in grass lands, but are not usually serious in land 
plowed every year. Fall plowing and thorough cultivation 
will destroy most of them. If not disturbed the white grub 
will frequently follow along a row eating off the roots and 
destroying one plant after another. By digging about a 
plant on the first indication of wilting the intruder can 
usually be found and killed. 

Cut ^Vo^ms, Wire Worms and \Vhite Grubs can be 
kept out of late plantings of Asters by the treatment recom- 
mended for putting the soil in good condition ; namely, 
early plowing and frequent harrowing until planting time. 
The pests are eventually cleaned out in this way. For early 
Asters, that have to be planted as soon as the ground is 
plowed, one should select a place that had clean tillage the 
previous year. Ground that is weedy or grassy is likely to 
be infested. In one case coming under our notice, where 
a block of early Asters was set on freshly plowed clover sod, 
one-third of the plants were eaten by cut-worms the first 
night; the remainder of the plants were saved by replanting 
in another place. Thorough and frequent tillage will fre- 
quently get rid of wire-worms and cut-worms. Cultivating 
close to the plants and hoeing between them at frequent 
intervals gets the worms worked out of the soil. The white 
grubs are not easily reached by the hoe, and when one gets 
started in a row, it will eat the roots off one plant after 
another until the grub has been captured. 

The Red-headed Flea-beetle, Systema frontalis, is less than 
a quarter of an inch long, with the wing covers distinctively 
striped lengthwise, s.omewhat resembling the striped cu- 
cumber beetle. As its name would indicate, it is a very lively 
insect. It does not usually appear in serious numbers until 
late summer, when it ruins the blooms for cutting by eating 
pits in the gieen bracts surrounding the flowers. One year 






HOAV TO GEOW ASTERS 

5?^"v • V • V • >4*'»->j>-»^^ 



31 




Aster plant in dry ground dying from attacks of Tarnished Plant- 
leaves were black and crisp. 



bugs. Part of the 



38 II O AV T O G R O ^V A S T E B S 

it attacked the newly set plants in considerable numbers, 
riddling the few leaves, so that we were compelled to spray 
thirty acres of Asters to save them. Arsenate of lead proved 
an effective remedy, applied at the customary strength. 

The Striped Cucumber-beetle, too well known to need 
description, is sometimes found in destructive numbers, eat- 
ing the petals of Asters and disfiguring them for market. It 
may be controlled by the use of arsenate of lead. 

Root Lice cause the plants to have a wilted, sickly, 
stunted appearance. Upon pulling up the affected plants the 
roots will be found to be covered with bluish lice. A mulch 
of tobacco stems, or tobacco dust applied early in the season 
will prevent attacks. Saturating the soil about the roots of 
affected plants with freshly made tobacco water will destroy 
the lice. This may be prepared by pouring boiling water 
over tobacco stems, or tobacco dust, and leaving it in a 
closed vessel for a few hours. 

As root lice live over winter in the soil it is not safe to 
plant Asters the following year on land where they have 
appeared. 

Diseases of the Aster 

Yellows. The yellow disease of the Aster is characterized 
by a pale yellowish green color and a spindling growth. The 
entire plant shown on page 33 had a pale, bleached color 
which is not shown in the picture. The growth was more 
upright and more slender than that of neighboring healthy 
plants. In extreme cases the plants have a bleached look 
and the flowers are pale green or white. The corollas of the 
florets are long, and appear tubular instead of flat, as shown 
on page 35. It frequently affects a part of the plant, often 
dividing on the branch so that one-half of the terminal 
flower will be a sickly green and the other half a normal 
color. The plant shown on page 37 was attacked by the yel- 
lows after normal growth had started. The large leaves were 
normal size and a dark healthy green in color. The new 
growth starting from the axils of these leaves was very 



H O W 



TO GRO^V ASTERS 



33 




Ister plant with yellow disease. Entire plant pale greenish yellow, and a spindling growth 

slender and a pale greenish yellow in color, like the heart of 
a celery plant. In this case we suspect that growth was first 
checked by plant-bug injury. The disease is apparently 
brought on by an irregularity in the moisture supply and 
rarely appears under glass, or under any circumstances where 
moisture conditions are under complete control. In field 
culture early plowing and frequent cultivation will conserve 
the soil moisture and produce conditions so nearly uniform 
that the losses from yellows are usually not serious. 



HOW TO GBOW ASTEBS 

On the other hand we have had letters from amateurs 
having several hundred plants, nearly all rendered worth- 
less by this sort of bilious attack. 

In small plantings where the yellow disease has been 
prevalent, and where thorough cultivation is not practicable, 
we would suggest a trial of mulching for the purpose of 
keeping a more uniform condition of soil moisture. Because 
of growing under similar conditions several plants in the 
same row are sometime affected, one after another, in such 
a way as to lead to the belief that the disease is spreading 
from plant to plant. 

Investigations made at the Massachusetts Agricultural 
College, some years ago, extending over a period of several 
years, demonstrated that the disease is not caused by any 
organism, either fungus or bacterium ; and it is not com- 
municated from one plant to another. 

It is not carried over in the seed ; nor is it in any way 
caused by poor or weak seed. The strongest Aster plants are 
quite as liable to disease as the weak ones ; and a disease 
having the same appearance is prevalent among some of our 
common roadside weeds. 

The peculiar appearance of the diseased Aster plants is 
the result of a sort of indigestion in the plant; and that, in 
turn, seems to be caused by some irregularity in the supply 
of soil moisure. 

Damping ofT before the first transplanting and stem rot 
in the field, troubles arising from similar causes, sometimes 
take a heavy toll, especially in early varieties. They may be 
classed as preventable diseases. Understanding the nature 
of the diseases and using proper precautions we can escape 
serious loss. It is well known that damping off is caused by 
a microscopic fungus eating off the stem of the little seed- 
ling. Three factors that favor the growth of this fungus are : 
first, the presence of decaying organic matter; second, a 
continuously moist condition ; third, absence of sunlight. 
Ordinary potting soil, full of organic matter, is a good breed- 



HOW TO GBOW ASTEBS 



35 




Abortive Aster flower on plant with yellow disease. Florets tubular, and pale green. 

ing ground for fungi. When sowing Aster seed in flats or 
frames, if we cover the soil with a half inch or more of 
sterile sand we very largely cut out the first factor. We can 
get around the second factor by making the intervals be- 
tween watering as long as possible. This is facilitated by the 
sand which acts as a mulch to the layer of soil below. It is 
a decided advantage to have the surface dry, if the soil in 
which the roots are feeding is reasonably moist ; but it takes 
some self restraint for the beginner to refrain from usiner a 



30 HOW TO GRO^V ASTERS 

hose whenever he can find a dry spot. We cannot control 
sunlight; but we can give the plants a better show by sow- 
\ng the seeds in rows. This admits light and air to the stems 
and permits frequent stirring of the surface. 

StemRot. When in doubt, examine for stem-rot. In the 
final stage of the disease the outside of stem is black and 
decayed about the base ; sometimes the outer covering is 
green, but the inner layer is dead, and black streaks run 
through the center of the stems. In either case the damage, 
is done by a fungus growth which eventually girdles the 
plant and causes it to wilt and die. As a rule, it does not 
show much in the field until about the time the plants begin 
to bloom, but in most cases the plants were infected while 
still in the flat or seed bed. A neighbor who grows several 
acres of Asters for seed raises his plants in frames. At one 
time he had heavy losses from stem-rot. He has practically 
controlled the trouble by using soil from a sand bank, en- 
riched with phosphate in place of manure. If there are low 
spots in the field, not well drained, stem-rot is liable to de- 
velop during continued wet weather. When the trouble has 
appeared it is too late to apply remedies, and, as in the case 
of damping off, one can only suggest the proverbial "ounce 
of prevention." If there are facilities for watering in the 
field, soak the ground to a depth of several inches and stir 
the soil as soon as it will work up mellow. Constant light 
surface watering is wasteful of time and water and is condu- 
cive to stem-rot. Good success under glass has been reported 
from the use of air slacked lime, in connection with keeping 
the plants and the surface of the benches free from decaying 
leaves. The spores of the fungus that causes stem-rot appear 
to be carried over from year to year in greenhouses and 
cold frames. In cases where there has been much loss from 
this trouble it would be well to thoroughly spray with a one 
per cent solution of formaldehyde before again using for 
the growing of Aster plants. 



HOW TO GEOWASTEKS gt 

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Aster plant affected with yellow disease late in season. Large leaves normal size 
and color ; new growths slender, and pale greenish yellow. 



38 II O W T O G B O W A S T E K !i; 

Stem-rot seldom appears in plants that are grown in the 
open ground. In fact we have never known a case of serious 
loss in fields planted from outdoor grown plants, except in 
low, wet spots. 

Rust. The "orange rust," characterized by conspicuous 
orange colored pustules on the under side of the leaves, 
sometimes becomes a serious trouble. We believe that it 
gains much headway only where the plants have been 
checked in their growth by other causes. Spraying thor- 
oughly, so as to cover the underside of the leaves with a 
fungicide, will hold the rust in check. 

Blight. A disease bearing a superficial resemblance to 
the "early blight" of potatoes has been noted in a few fields 
in this county. We do not know that this trouble is prevalent 
elsewhere. It would appear to be carried over in the soil as 
it has appeared in the same fields three years in succession. 
So far as we know it has not been identified. 

Miscellaneous Hk^ts 

For the Amateur's Garden. The easiest way to grow 
Aster plants is to sow the seed in rows in the vegetable 
garden or in a flower bed. If this is done in April or early 
May., as soon as the ground can be worked nicely, the plants 
will come along in time for a full crop of flowers. It is diffi- 
cult to grow Aster plants in a dwelling house. They need 
full light and do best at a temperature of about 55°, running 
up to 70° in sunlight. 

When planting Asters in beds in the flower garden those 
having an upright growth, and most of the mid-season vari- 
eties, may be planted 8 to 10 inches apart each way. The 
large Branching kinds 15 to 18 inches each way. 

Flowers for Exhibition. Pinch out the center bud when 
the plants are six to eight inches in height. Allow from 
three to five branches to start and keep the side buds pinch- 
ed on these. When the plants are large enough to permit, 
mulch them with three or four inches of partly decayed 



HOW TO GROW ASTERS 39 

manure, and keep thenj well watered with weak manure 
water. If cut before fully opened the flowers may be held 
for ten or more days by standing in a cool cellar with the 
stems in water. In hot weather better flowers can be had if 
cut when a third open and allowed to open slowly in a light 
cellar. When putting Asters in vases any leaves that would 
be under water should be stripped from the stems, as they 
become offensive in a short time. 

If the flowers are to be sent to a distance pack in small 
bunches with wet paper around the stems and soft, dry paper 
about each bunch of flowers. Use plenty of paper in packing 
and be sure that the flowers will not shuck in the package. 
Have flowers and all materials as cool as possible when 
packed. It is better, if possible, to ship at night, so that the 
flowers are travelling while it is cool. 

Amount of Seed. It may be of interest to know that an 
ounce of Aster seed contains about ten to twelve thousand 
seeds. After making liberal allowances for injury and de- 
struction of young plants in planting, etc., one ought to 
grow five thousand mature plants from one ounce of seed. 
On a large scale we allow six ounces of seed to the acre of 
plants, or about three thousand plants to the ounce of seed. 

IlSSECTICIDES 

POISONS FOR INSECTS THAT EAT THE PliAN TS 

Paris Green. Use as for potatoes, etc. One pound to 
150 gallons of water. 

Scheele's Green. Used as Paris green. Remains in 
suspension better. 

Arsenate of Lead. Probably the safest and best of the 
mineral poisons. Used only in spray. Six pounds Arsenate 
of Lead paste and 100 gallons of water. 

Hellebore. Preferred to the mineral poisons for use in 
a small way. May be used dry, diluted with five parts of 
flour or air-slacked lime. Apply with a bellows. As a spray, 
one ounce to three gallons of water. 



WAR 25 W2 

10 n O ^V T O G R O W A S T E K S 

V • V ~ V • V • V • V • V • V " V • V " V ~ ■♦■ — >• ~ '♦■ — -♦•-•»■- - -^ 

Contact Ke3ij:dies 

FOR SOrT-BODFED IXSECTS AXD THOSE WITH SVCKING 
MOUTH PAKTS (PLAXT L,ICE AXD BUGS) 

Whale Oil Soap. Dissolve one pound in hot water and 
dilute to seven gallons. 

Pyrethrum. Dry, with two parts of flour. Apply with 
a bellows. As a spray one ounce to three gallons of water. 

Tobacco Dust — Tobacco Stems. The dust is an excel- 
lent remedy for plant lice. For a spray, steep one pound of 
stems in two gallons of water. Use %cliile fresh. 

"Black Leaf 40" is the best form in which the active 
principle of tobacco is prepared for outdoor use. Dilute with 
water, as directed. Keeps indefinitely. 

Fungicides 

Bordeaux Mixture : 

Blue Vitrol 5 pounds. 

Fresh Lime -.-5 pounds. 

Water ...50 gallons. 

Dissolve the vitriol by suspending it in water over night 
in a coarse sack. Use a wooden or earthen vessel. Slake the 
lime separately. Dilute each solution before mixing and 
strain before using. Do not mix the solutions together until 
wanted for use ; or maybe procured already prepared. 

Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate and Soap : 

Copper Carbonate 6 ounces 

Ammonia (26°) 3 ounces. 

Soap 1 pound. 

Water 50 gallons. 

Dissolve the copper carbonate in the ammonia, some- 
what diluted with water, using no more ammonia than is 
necessary barely to dissolve the copper carbonate. Put this 
into 40 gallons of water. Dissolve the soap and add to the 
solution. May be kept indefinitely if kept in stoppered bot- 
tles. Does not discolor the foliage like Bordeaux Mixture. 

We can furnish any of the Insecticides or Fungicides 
here mefitioned. 



